Backpacking!!!

Backpacking in Chikkamagalur!!

We thought we’d try a trip without any plans, Srinath and me. We didn’t even plan about the number of days, didn’t even reserve our seats. We left everything to be decided then and there, for the thrill of real backpacking.

DAY 1: Chikkamagalur, Kudremukha, Kalasa, Horanadu

WE ARE OFF!!

We got a fair amount of thrill even before we started off, the 27tthnight, Bhutto was assassinated and we almost had to cancel the trip. We somehow managed to convince our parents and boarded the 23:30 bus to Chikkamagalur. The road is pretty good and we reached our destination by 05:30 early morning. We booked ourselves into a hotel near the bus stand and after enquiring decided to visit Kudremukha (90km) first. We boarded a bus to Kottigehara, and from there to Kudremukha. There are many buses on the route so no worries. The journey is very refreshing, awesome scenery wherever you look, rolling hills, small streams and falls every other turn. Kudremukha is a beautiful placed surrounded by hills all around. At Kudremukha we hired a rickshaw fellow to show us around for 400Rs. We had to take permission of the forest dept as the area falls under the national park. First we visited the Lakya dam. It’s a very interesting place, the dam is filled with the slag from mining. Its kind of weird to see a dam full, but not with water. After that we went to Gangamoola, the birthplace of rivers Tunga and Bhadra. It’s a nice to go for a stroll here, amidst the Western Ghats. All through the day the view all around was spectacular. We almost got tired of clicking pictures. Our next stop was the nature camp. It’s a beautiful camping site next to the newly born Bhadra river. The river is a crystal clear stream with a depth of about 2 feet. You can book for a package at the nature camp, which includes trekking too. After spending some time playing in the cool water, we went to Hanuman Gundi falls. You’ve to climb down from the road to find the falls. You have to be wary of the slippery boulders here, and its great to sit below the falls, refreshing cool water thumping on your body. After a lazy time at the falls we returned to Kudremukha to the big park with an aquarium, there’s nothing special about this park, you can just enjoy the greenery with lots of shade.

The guide was well worth the money as we managed to cover all the places (all are within 40km) in and around Kudremukha within 5hrs with a leisurely pace. We had a rather late lunch of dosas near the bus stop, and boarded a bus back. We got down at Kalasa (20km from Kudremukha on the road to Chikkamagalur), situated on the banks of the river Bhadra, is surrounded by lofty hills of the Western Ghats and is looked upon as one of the pancha-kshetras on the banks of the Bhadra. Close by are the pancha theerthas, the five sacred ponds. There’s a famous Shiva temple at Kalasa. After the darshana we took a bus to Horanadu. This is famous for the Goddess Annapurna temple. We had the dinner at the temple itself. Yes, all the temples in South Canara provide food as prasada, very tasty that too, especially at Horanadu. Horanadu is a beautiful place in the middle of Western Ghats. We took the 21:30 bus from Horanadu to Chikkamagalur, through Kottigehara.

DAY 2: Bababudan Giri, Sringeri

We checked out of the hotel and after a delicious breakfast and took a bus to Bababudan giri (35 kms). It’s a wonderful hill station with a cave shrine, sacred to both Hindus and Muslims. It’s surrounded by thick green forests, has salubrious climate and panoramic view of wild mountains, birds singing and the blissful cool breeze. The journey is also very nice with awesome scenery, all the way. From the bus stop, we took a Jeep ride to the Manikyadhara falls (6 kms). Those looking for some excitement can try the jeep top, we did… WOW!! What a ride it was!! The water falls from a rock on top of the hill, amazing! You can go for a short trek here and enjoy the scenery to your hearts content. After a picnic with the lunch we’d packed from Chikkamagalur we returned and boarded a bus to Sringeri. Sringeri is a picturesque town in the heart of the Malnad with rich vegetation and pleasant climate. This temple town attracts pilgrims from all over India and abroad as well. It is located at the foot of the Sahyadris (Western Ghats). Sringeri is famous for the Sharada temple established by Shankaracharya, on the Tunga riverbank. It’s a beautiful place surrounded by hills. The food at the temple is delicious.

DAY 3: Agumbe, Manipal, Udupi, Malpe, St Mary’s Island

We got up early and after a peaceful visit to the temple, boarded the 7:00 bus to Agumbe (20km). After two plates of tasty idli vada, at Agumbe we went to Manipal (40km). Manipal is a small town famous for educational and financial institutions. After a visit to the planetarium and an anatomy museum we left for Udupi (5 km). After the darshana at the Krishna temple we left for Malpe beach (6 km). Its beautiful with endless stretch of golden sand, graciously swaying palm trees, the clear blue sky, gurgle of the sea… all set the perfect mood for the unforgettable holiday here. We took a boat to St Mary’s island (7 km). You can also take the ferry and cut costs. It’s a small picturesque island with unique volcanic rock formations. It’s ideal for lying on the sand and waiting for the sunset. It’s not advisable to get into the water, as the waves are very strong and dangerous. After lazing around in the Malpe beach, with lots of chats, we returned to Udupi and boarded a sleeper bus to Bangalore, with a silent vow to return.

It cost us Rs 1900 each, you can do with a bit lesser than that too.

This trip was a great success, thanks mainly to the wholehearted help of local people. My impression that the Kannada people are very helpful was reaffirmed. I do not think it’s possible to manage just as well in any other state, without knowing the local knowledge.

I hope this article is helpful in planning for your trip to Chikkamagalur. Happy Journey!!